Model : Martin Angerbauer by Wolfgang Schmidhuber (part 12) Interview

"Cold morning on Coney Island" is the title of this story featuring Austrian redheaded model Martin Angerbauer, 26, beautifully shot by Wolfgang Schmidhuber.
A Morphosis regular you could see a number of times, Martin Angerbauer kindly accepted to answer my interview ! Definitely a lovely person.

Interview :
Lestat : Who is Martin Angerbauer ?
Martin : I was born and raised in Austria. I currently reside in Vienna. I will move to the United States soon though. I studied acting and had the amazing chance to meet up with Susanne Lefèvre who became of one my teachers. While working on my headshots, I met the great Tom Hoops with whom everything started. He brought me to modeling. Morphosis featured the pictures.
Lestat : How do you feel about modeling ?
Martin : I really love the fact that so many things are possible with the photographer, the team, the camera and the model. It’s always different although I’m the same. To know that the team will create something new always gets me excited. I love to open up and always want to dig deeper in my body and to see if I can go even further. To know that the photographer can capture some moments I didn’t think of is really a joy especially for art projects, but even in fashion photography I try to show you and the camera what I feel.
Lestat : What’s a working day like ? You 're also an actor...
Martin : That’s a very good question. So many different days... To keep it short, during my free time besides meeting friends and having some fun, I do a lot of thinking about my own acting projects. I work on short films, stories I want to relate in a different way, that touch me. Therefore I need to learn not to talk way too fast. So yes, I’m an actor and I love that I can use what I learned there for my modeling career.
Lestat : Who / what inspires you the most in general ?
Martin : I’m so happy with the Internet ! I sit at home, open my browser, type in some words I’m interested in, e.g. some designers, and I stare at all those amazing pictures coming up. Then I surf on Youtube, watch little movies, listen to music and suddenly all those pictures and the music create some new ideas and I’m about to move my body or just write those ideas down.
Lestat : What was the best shoot like so far ?
Martin : Honestly for me, it’s very hard to say this or that was the best shoot. I've had really amazing times while working. All teams and people have been so different I think I absolutely can’t compare... Everything makes every time very special and that’s what I really enjoy !
Lestat : Is being a ginger an asset ?
Martin : I remember my childhood and well, as a ginger you are different and as a child you want to be like all the others. But today I’m very happy to be one of those readheaded guys and to be different although I know it’s a thing people think about, which again makes it interesting.
Lestat : What would be the perfect next assignment like ?
Martin : Doesn’t have to be the very next one but always on my mind. To create a fashion video and shoot with Tilda Swinton or Julianne Moore. Or both !
Lestat : What will be the next step ?
Martin : The next big step is to move to America, as well as my own little acting projects I’m working on.
Lestat : Is love important to you ?
Martin : Yes it definitely is, but I think it's not just about the love you get from your girlfriend or boyfriend. For me love is to care about people, to accept the other ways of life, to be one of these real good friends you know you can trust on or those who just think of you.
Lestat : What do you wear to bed ?
Martin : You wanna know ? You'd better have a look !
Lestat : Do you spend much time on the Internet ?
Martin : Yes I definitely do. Sometimes I think way too much already !
Lestat : Answer the question you’d like to be asked.
Martin : Whole lotta love to you !

twenty(2)too interview ft. Kaan Tilki (part 9)

Interview :
Lestat : Who is Mihai Dan Zarug, the designer of Romanian label twenty(2)too ?
Mihai : I'm 30 years old, I live and work in Bucharest. People would say about me that I'm open-minded, playful and possibly a bit too exacting. I am not very comfortable with the word 'designer', as I feel I would love to become rather more an artisan in the long run. My favorite part is not drawing but getting into the patterns and the sewing machines. I'm keen on the entire process of transformation.
Lestat : How did you start you career ?
Mihai : I started my brand in 2009. I had my first showcase in January 2010 in Paris. I stuck in. My passion for clothing began in my chilhood. My mother used to run a factory. Because in those days it was difficult to have a nanny (my brother and I were little devils), I used to spend some of my time at my mom's work place. And I was loving it. I was fascinated to see how the big rolls of fabric were transported by a machine and then cut by a computer. I was in heaven. But other than that, dolls were my fave toys !
I chose to design menswear because I reckon I never could find the clothes I wanted to wear when I was a teenager and it kind of got a frustration to me with time. And then of course, my first serious job in Paris was under Alain Gossuin, who designs only menswear. I take it that the first job you get defines your future.
Lestat : What's a working day like ?
Mihai : First off, my day is a mess. Hectic, I mean. I can plan the important things like production, deadlines and orders, pretty much everything that affects the people I work with, but as far as I'm concerned, my own expectations drive me disappointed. I have alot of fun doing my job and I'll continue only as long as it makes me happy.
Lestat : What/who inspires you most ?
Mihai : Hmmm... it's hard to say... the people I meet up with, the music I listen to, the places I happen to got to... all mixed with my mood of the moment. For instance, the very first idea for the Fall/Winter 2011 collection started from a picture of Bronski Beat. I can't even remember how I got to listen to their song on Youtube but I got obsessed with a picture of Jimmy Sommerville with his hands in his pockets. Funny, huh ?
First question that pops up when I design something is : "Would I wear this ?"... and then it's always what I feel I would absolutely want for that season.
I love the idea of an alien ship descending towards a Romanian village, what the inhabitants would take, how this exchange would happen. Would they start a blended culture ? And what about the crossover babies ? !
Lestat : How was the process of this season's collection ?
Mihai : This was kind of a "one man show". I started from the idea of transformables. Pieces of clothing you can transform and mix together to create something else. I'm increasingly fond of versatile items. Nowadays you gotta think twice before investing in fancy fashion. The Summer collection is entitled "A chain reaction". I liked the Wikipedia definition of a positive feedback and I thought it was perfect for what was my mood at that time : "Basically a system undergoing positive feedback is unstable and it will tend to spiral out of control as the effect amplifies itself". It was right after my début collection that got great reviews but no commercial feedback.
It's very easy for me to start a collection. I have great endurance for work when I love my job and I almost never stop. It becomes more difficult on the way, when I have new ideas that I want to add on. And it's always more difficult to keep it simple and coherent rather than to unleash the creative beast ! Oh by the way, the little logo face is MeeMo, from "yo mismo" in Spanish (i.e 'myself'). I made it in Paris between two assignments, I was a bit down and bored, staring at my messenger page with no one to talk to. I decided to have fun though. I love that little face, it's so me !
The model of this season's lookbook shot by Tibi Clenci was a boy aged only 17 at the time of the shoot. Allure (the modeling agency) called me to tell me about a newbie they just spotted. He never worked before. So I was like "Oh no, another boring kid who wanna be a model". And then they sent him in for a fitting. he was electrifying, extremely handsome, very skinny, a bit shy and very polite. I was amazed, and still am. His name is Kaan Tilki.
Lestat : There's alot of black in this collection. Why ?
Mihai : Black is universal, everyone wears it. At the same time, it's a classic to pick up again when in doubt. I mostly use it to express angst, sorrow, vagueness, the reality of life in actuality, which -let's face it- is never that pink ! So I start the collections with black, the black reality. Then I step into the light of a chosen dimension, much more colorful and fun.
Lestat : What are your projects ?
Mihai : I'm currently working on my next collection, SS12, which I hope I can show in Berlin. I'd love to showcase it again in Paris too. I also plan a fash show here in Bucharest for this collection. I already have ideas for the show I really want to do. Actually not only some ideas, I'm a control freak, you know. Everything's already chosen, from location to music and lighting !
Lestat : Is love important to you ?
Mihai : Extremely important. I am a very lucky one with the family and friends I have. It's mainly thanks to their love that I can keep on living my dream. As far as the more romantic side of the matter is concerned, I haven't met the right person to keep up with as of yet. Maybe tomorrow !
Lestat : What do you wear to bed ?
Mihai : Naughty question ! Not much, undies, most of the time nothing, not even a drop of Chanel No.5.
Lestat : Do you spend much time on the Internet ?
Mihai : Fairly much. It is an incredible source of information. For example, if I need to now more about a supplier, I can find out pretty much everything in twi minutes with a simple Googl search.
Lestat : Answer the question you'd like to be asked.
Mihai : Yes I will marry you !
Lestat : Thanks for your joie de vivre Mr MeeMo !

Roberto Piqueras interview

Interview :
Lestat : ¿ Quién es Roberto Piqueras ?
Roberto : Tengo 26 años, nací en Sabadell, cerca de Barcelona, y estudié en la escuela de moda Felicidad Duce, pero mi mejor profesor fue Luacs Arraut.
Lestat : ¿ Cómo empezó su carrera ?
Roberto : Empecé un poco casualidades de la vida, estaba en Madrid y me propusieron presentarme com mi propia marca en la pasarela Ego de Cibeles y a partir de aquí nació lo que puede llamar un interés general sobre el trabajo que hacía (en su momento yo no sabía dónde iba, casi ni sabía porque lo hacía).
Lestat : ¿ Y por qué la ropa para hombres ?
Roberto : Porque es un reflejo directo de lo que yo quiero ponerme.
Lestat : ¿ Cómo se desarrolla un día de trabajo ?
Roberto : Un día de trabajo puede ser muy distinto a otro, un día puedo estar dedicado a la tienda online y otro pensendo en la sesión que voy a pinchar en la siguiente fiesta. No hay una rutina. Trabajo solo pero siempre con el apoyo de amigos que también se dedican al mundo de la moda.
Lestat : ¿ Dónde encuentra su inspiración ?
Roberto : En mi experienci diaria, en la cultura de las ciudades y en los amigos.
Lestat : Presenta la colección P/V11.
Roberto : La colección de esta temporada habla de Angelyne. De como ser Barbie después de los 50 ! Es una ironía al plástico y los buenos places. Todo esta estampado de forma digital para conseguir el efecto 3D, con la ayuda de la diseñadora Alba Plaza.
Lestat : ¡ Me gustan mucho el trompe-l'oeil y la felpa ! ¿ Sus proyectos ? También trabaja como estilista para revistas...
Roberto : Sí, eso lo hago de vez en cuando para poder aprender trabajando con otras marcas y otros clientes. Ahora mismo estoy preparándome para dirigir la imagen creativa de la artista TGWDE. A parte de proyectos varios que iremos viendo a la luz poco a poco.
Lestat : ¿ Es el amor importante para Ud ?
Roberto : En mi vida ocupa muy poco lugar el 'clasico' amor, pero el amor de la amistad sí es muy importante.
Lestat : ¿ Qué lleva para dormir ?
Roberto : Normalmente me gusta ir a la cama con pijama o una camiseta, pero siempre acabo desnudo.
Lestat : ¿ Pasa mucho tiempo en la web ?
Roberto : Todo el rato estoy en Internet, es mi herramienta de comunicación más importante.
Lestat : Conteste la pregunta que le gustaría que se pregunte.
Roberto : ¿ Cuál es su juguete favorito de la infancia ? Blandi Blub.
Lestat : ¡ Muchas gracias Roberto !

Snapper : Enzo Laera Interview

Photographer extraordinaire Enzo Laera accepted to answer the Morphosis interview and joined some outtakes (above) of his Tendencias shoot featuring Harry Goodwins.
Jump to the complete editorial from here.
Interview :
Lestat : Who is Vincenzo Laera ?
Enzo : I'm a 40-something photgrapher born in Milan. I spent half of my life between New York and Los Angeles. Just landed in Berlin. I have a degree in social behaviors, mastered in Berlin.
Lestat : How did you start your career ?
Enzo : I started twenty-eight years ago, first in Milan then I moved to NYC, and began collaborating in the industry. First as a hair stylist. The trasnsition from that to photography was kind of natural, it was the only reason why I stayed in this industry, it gave me a great opportunity to see in action, camera in hands, fantastic photographers such as Avedon, Penn, Meisel, Klein, Leibowit , Newton, Watson to name a few. I always had images in my mind and that was the only reason why I enjoyed the fashion shoots, so... when the right time came, it was absolutly more than normal to make "photography" my passion, as a new career. Fashion photography and portraiture are the only assigments that I was ever in, from a very young age. I wish I could shoot and love landscape too, as much I like people, but I really don't know much about it. So I think I will keep shooting gorgous humans for a bit longer .
Lestat : What’s a working day like ?
Enzo : I usually wake up early, it's just my normal routine, I think of the day to come, and always make sure that... model first and every collaborator will have all the details for what we are ready to do. As long as I have my model in front of the camera by 1pm, I'm very happy, I usually require to meet everybody by 10.30am, but if for whatever reason the model can t be in town before noon, then... 1 pm or 2 pm is just all right. The atmosphere is always relax, confortable, sane ! My models (or the talent of the day) are my heros and my priority... don't mess with'em or you are outa the production !
Lestat : Who / what inspires you most ?
Enzo : Sounds, music, light, beauty, shapes, movements, words, photo art & art installations. But I also like vampires, S. Freud, Machintosh, men on weekends, sobriety, Panorama bar, Sasha P., my choise of models, Acqua di Parma, Iris poudre, Pierre Bourdon, and the work of : B. Weber, H. Slimane, P. Picasso, A. dello Russo, J. Vallhonrat, S. Klein, S. Meisel, N. Formichetti, Dior Homme, Life, A Smile.
Lestat : How was the process of your last shoot ?
Enzo : I received a request from this art director, immediatly after made a call in London to one of the sharpest and coolest booking agent ever : Ryan at Models1. I Confirmed an angel : Harry Goodwins. The job was an assigment for Tendencias . The edit is in Morphosis !
Lestat : What would be the perfect next shoot like ?
Enzo : A bigger budget .
Lestat : What are your projects ?
Enzo : On the way to confirm the new cover boy plus a 12-page editorial for the May issue . Always a surprise !
Lestat : Speaking of the Tendencias shoot again, how was it like ?
Enzo : It was a fantastic day, Harry Goodwins landed in Berlin at 10.30am, arrived at the appointment location by 11.15, like "mostly of the models" he was not starving, so we decided, instead of a lunch, to start the shoot, we hit the location by 1.30pm, and by 5pm we had all the pictures. At 6pm, we all had a great dinner at Trattoria Popolare, which is one of the most authentic Italian restaurant in Berlin .
Lestat : Sounds awesome ! Now other than that, is love important to you ?
Enzo : I have to be in "love" with what is in front of my camera, or the entire process is painfull and never fullfilling .
Lestat : I have a more stupid question ! What do you wear to bed ?
Enzo : Just my underwear. Sometimes a man, in the past, my dog.
Lestat : Do you spend much time on the Internet ?
Enzo : I wish I could say... no I don't.
Lestat : Answer the question you’d like to be asked.
Enzo : Yes I do accept your offer to shoot your new campaign, and sure, I'll move to London if you want me to.
Lestat : ...and we won't know who this is aimed at !

Stiaan Louw interview

Stiaan Louw designs dress. This would be less compelling news if he were a womenswear designer, but the Stiaan Louw line has always been about elegant streamlined pieces for men. "The male dress is what we're calling it", Louw clarifies. This in no small accomplishment in a country where traditional views of masculinity dominate. "I've been lookingat a variety of things for this collection : Maasai culture, ancient Roman culture, ancient Greek culture", Louw says from his studio in Cape Town's Woodstock district. Two things seem to bind them together : a warrior tradition, and tunics. "What I like about their dress is that it's often one piece of fabric that's used in such an original manner", Louws says. "If you think about Maasai culture, you're thinking about masculinity -but these dresses, if that's what you may call them, are quite drapey, with feminine undertones. I'm interested in challenging those norms -or if not challenging them, showing in my work how young men are shifting away from them, and finding a different kind of voice". Independant fashion labels are new to South Africa (Louw dates their inception to 1998 or 1999) and lines for men are fewer still. he was recently named the continent's best menswear designer at the African Fashion Awards, to his own surprise. "I expected there to be more people working in menswear in South Africa, or any other part of Africa", he says. Is life as a menswear designer in South Africa a perilously lonely enterprise ? "I love this country, and I want to work from here", he replies. "I can't see myself setting up anywhere else".

Picture by Justin Polkey

Interview :
Lestat : Who is Stiaan Louw ?
Stiaan : I'm a 33-year-old South African designer based in Woodstock, Cape Town. Stiaan Louw is my eponymous brand name.
Lestat : How did you start your career ?
Stiaan : I studied film and then fashion, graduating in 2001. I started as a stylist and then progressed to accessory design and womenswear design, launching my own label in 2004 in South Africa. I refocused my brand in 2008 to menswear as I felt frustrated with the options that were available to South African men. I also feel that my design aesthetic is better suited to menswear and it allows me to subtly shift boundaries.
Lestat : What’s a working day like ?
Stiaan : There is no structure to my working day. A single day can include constructing patterns for a specific style, producing garments with my seamstress, coordinating shoots for the brand and communicating with clients interested in it. I have a small team who assists me in the design and manufacturing process. Everything is produced and designed inhouse. We do use accessories from a brand called Missibaba who specialises in leather and silver jewellery from Ida Elsje.
Lestat : Who/what inspires you most ?
Stiaan : I am continually inspired by social and sexual subcultures and shift in modern masculinity all in relation to South African and African men, but also within a global context. Our latest collection is specifically focused on exploring a modern African menswear aesthetic and also questions what it means to be a modern African.
Lestat : How was the process of the design of this 6th collection ?
Stiaan : It was quite an organic process. It started off with a study of wrapping and draping in different indigenous African cultures and then expanding to the study of the Maasai and other African tribes. It is easy to tap into the inspiration being based in Africa. We worked exclusively with natural fibres and especially fabrics that had a soft drapability to it. This is a non-seasonal project that we will be working on for some time. The next component will explore what we call the states of dress and undress. We explore how modern men define themselves through what they wear but also the controversial subject of male nudity in society, traditional and modern.
Lestat : There is a lot of faded colors (but the red)… why ?
Stiaan : We started the collection with a more typical palette associated with the brand, the greys, nudes and softer tones, but wanted to evolve the handwriting of the brand. We looked at the Maasai in particular who traditionally use red and ink blue in their traditional dress and evolved the collection towards the end to include these colours.
Lestat : What are your projects ?
Stiaan : We are about to work on the third shoot in our '6' series loosely titled 'states of dress and undress' which will be released shortly. The series will then change direction slightly and introduce our next collection. Other than that we are looking at exporting this year and also showing at other platforms, both locally and internationally.
Lestat : Is love important to you ?
Stiaan : At this point I find love to be a distraction from my goals as a designer. I think it is important in the long run but I love being a designer at the moment and that is fulfilling.
Lestat : What do you wear to bed ?
Stiaan : Nothing.
Lestat : Do you spend much time on the Internet ?
Stiaan : The brand has an online focus. But I have recently been able to step aside and allow other memebers of my team to work on the online strategy.
Lestat : Answer the question you’d like to be asked.
Stiaan : I think you have covered most of it with your questions. I like your blog Morphosis !

Hyakinth

A graduate of Łódź Academy of Fine Arts, Polish designer Jacek Kłosiński, the man behind new label Hyakinth, is a specialist in printing on textiles. His works were shown at the Salon Indigo of Première Vision trade fair in Paris. "When I started making this collection, I realized I was able to express ideas, stories and moods more effectively through clothing than I ever managed to through art. The challenge of having to overcome the restriction of menswear motivated me to be a menswear designer. In contrast to womenswear, menswear is very much rooted in tradition, in which what is appropriate for a man to wear is clearly defined. My work is very much based on the tension created in the process of testing these limits. A good example is the jacket, a classic men's garment but executed in own designed digital printed textile. I discover the beauty of faulty and damaged things, when people tend to look the other way. This environment's imperfection inspires me to make hand-dyed garment", reported the designer.

Interview
Lestat : Who is Jacek Kłosiński ?
Jacek : I'm 25 years old, I'm Polish, I grew up in Łowicz and I now live in Warsaw, the capital city of Poland.
Lestat : How did you start your career ?
Jacek : When I was a student, I made some womenswear collections, but when I started working with Tatuum as a menswear designer, I thought that this was it ! However I quickly noticed there were plenty of restrictions with selling and I started feeling under big pressure. So I decided to work on my own, and I took the chance to achieve my ideas. Moreover I guess it's easier for me to design for men as I'm as a man . I always think of what would be suitable for me.
Lestat : What's a working day like ?
Jacek : I've just started in actuality, so I haven't my own workshop yet, I live and work in the same place, so it's a bit difficult at the moment. I make patterns and cut fabrics, have coffee, I sew, design prints, and I send e-mails ! Sometimes I have appointments. Everything depends on what needs to be done. I have also some lazy days... I currently work alone. But I hope it will change soon !
Lestat : Who/what inspires you most ?
Jacek : Oh I dont like this kind of question. Inspiration is a very complex case. First of all, I like surfing on the Internet to catch the global mood and second of all, I look into my memories, my impressions. For example the next collection I'm preparing is mainly based on my pictures from kindergarten. Trying to recall the atmosphere of those days but in a modern way. Effects soon !
Acording to people, I admire Vivienne Westwood for her absolute distance and sense of humor.
Lestat : How was the process of this first Hyakinth collection ?
Jacek : I started from the digital scan of a photographic film of my trip to Ireland. Then I sorted the images with similar colors out and fixed a mood-board. I was also inspired by Caspar David Friedrich's paintings. Next I designed textile prints. I put together this collection so that all elements can be juxtaposed to individual outfits. Kind of an open composition.
Lestat : Please explain your choice of faded colors.
Jacek : The colors come from the process I've just described. It was very foggy when I reached the Cliffs of Moher in Ireland and I used my analog camera to take pictures. The quality of the scans wasn't so good, but this imperfection gave me a color palette ready to use !
Lestat : What are your projects ?
Jacek : I have no clue. The future will tell. But I keep it up.
Lestat : Is love important to you ?
Jacek : Of course it is! Love inspires and gives the feeling of security. I've been in a relationship for eight years, and this is fascinating for me how the love from high scool is maturing.
Lestat : What do you wear to bed ?
Jacek : I know the right answer is nothing ! But the reality is other, I sleep in tee-shirt and boxer shorts.
Lestat : It was my stupid question, but there's no good or bad answer ! Do you spend much time on the Internet ?
Jacek : Few hours a day. In fact I'm always connected on Facebook with my cell phone.
Lestat : Answer the question you'd like to be asked.
Jacek : I dream of my own showroom, and I wish I could sing !
Oh and by the way, my name Jacek comes from the divine hero Hyacinthus (in Greek, Ὑάκινθος Hyakinthos) from Greek mythology, which explains the name of my label Hyakinth. Hyacinthus was Apollo's lover. Jealous Zephyrus killed him. When he died, Apollo didn't allow Hades to claim the beautiful boy; rather, he made a flower, the hyacinth, from his spilled blood.