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Gianfranco Ferré

Designers Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi made a crystal clear fashion statement with a fine East-meets-West collection. It's back to the vaults. The label made its mark with double-breasted suits in the 1980s, and they're back with a bit of that Eighties feel intact : made in silk and linen, they're cut loose but not baggy, with big David Byrne-ian shoulders included. These are clothes for lounging in a garden. Finding a photograph about India can inspire so many to draw, but it was even harder for it to produce this season's collection. An important matter that influenced the design duo was finding a photo about India from which their inspiration and creation grew. They could use similar colors to those in the picture and mix them together to begin the collection from two old yogis sitting in front of their hut, and hence beginning from heat, wooden textures and dust colors. They used a light pallette with smoky colors with muted hues of blue, olive green, and honey. The collection epitomized a classic formal style rather than a casual summer style. The suits came in pastel colors, including many tuxedos for special occasions or weddings, with some beautiful satin vests. Other formal styles of men's suits came with two or three-button jackets. Some trench coats were paired with these suits or with the classic travelwear, also many long and cropped jackets were used for similar purposes. Achieving a relaxed image without looking towards roll-up pant bottoms for help, the duo instead taper trousers by adding buttons to their ends, creating new shapes in familiar patterns and fabrics. Pairing jacquard prints with basics, leaving tops to hang form the inners of both shorts and pants, as belts were tied instead of tucked, the Ferré man was prepped for a easygoing day seaside at his Italian villa, with lightweight tunic billowing in the breeze. La dolce vita ?