Japanese designer Ato Matsumoto, the man behind the label, decided to scrape the women’s collection for this season and stick to men’s for a return to the runway with silhouettes of highly inventive and cunningly futuristic prepster athleticism. The collection took off from the collegiate standpoint and then went through a series of transformation and grew into a more rebellious, then tailored offering. Think opening with classic crewneck sweatshirts customized with sleeves removed, schoolboy blazers adorned with bondage tough straps, then ceding over to darkness with aviator jackets remixed with sharper lapels and multiple layering collars, and finally ending on gothic notes with capes trimmed with leather, layered over slim black suits. Vests, jackets and sweatshirts thoughtfully emblazoned with school crests and emblems were paired with somber-hued parachute fabric pants to evoke a bookish sportiness, the sort of academic high life looks one might find inside of the epically stylish library of some ultra-exclusive 22th century private school for billionaire boys.
