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Thom Browne

Thom Browne's stage was the French Communist Party's old Oscar Niemeyer-designed headquarters in Paris. A venue already used by Dries van Noten back in 2009. The crew of the Apollo 11 touched down in enemy territory, stared danger in the face and showed how to dress like a free man in the 21st century. Patch-pocketed, shark-patterned, and crest-emblazoned sports jackets in gabardine, seersucker and cotton madras, worn with shorts that hit just above the knee. Proudly American touches like saddle shoes, repp ties, aviator shades and of course, this being Thom Browne, lots of blue, white and red. Clothes for the man who's not afraid to give his wardrobe a swift kick in the apogee. In other words, a straightforward presentation of one of Mr Browne's most sellable looks in an all-styles-served-here range of options, from his own classic gray flannel to a shimmering sequined plaid. The designer loves a uniform, and this is probably his most uniform look, so the event acted as a newcomer's introduction to his singular aesthetics. For those already partial to his work, it was a chance to see Thom Browne's concentration on his craft : the fabric development, the appliqués, the embroidery, even his morbid wit (one motif featured a shark pursuing innocent little goldfish).