In James Small's début collection, entitled 'Ground Control', a variety of influences are called upon. From military uniforms, traditional formal elements of men's tailoring, workwear and the illustrated iconography of cosmonauts. "I wanted to make clothes based on things that I actually wear and clothes and images I collect", says James Small. "I have always had an interest in military uniforms -and some of the clothes in the collection are based on those silhouettes- as well as formal tailoring and workwear. I wanted to combine the things that I actually wear in an everyday sense but deconstruct the silhouettes and make the layers very obvious in a newer, sharper way. I wanted to involve traditional elements of tailoring and motifs, like the shawl collar, alongside workwear and combine and contrast their materials. I have always had a very graphic approach to drawing clothes and I like those simplified shapes and lines literally transferred to the garments, such as the cosmonaut jackets that should look cartoon-like because they were based on illustrations I had looked at".
Layering is a motif in the collection and is a reference to the construction and the wearing of military uniforms -although frequently applied to a formalwear and workwear sensibility- as well as the contrast between more relaxed and more structured silhouettes. Some of the tailoring was made in conjunction with Thom Whiddett of Thom Sweeney -"I have always admired what Thom Whiddett does so it was great to work with him", says James Small. Although this is a launch collection for the 29yo Brit designer, he was previously employed as first assistant to Kim Jones for six years.
Layering is a motif in the collection and is a reference to the construction and the wearing of military uniforms -although frequently applied to a formalwear and workwear sensibility- as well as the contrast between more relaxed and more structured silhouettes. Some of the tailoring was made in conjunction with Thom Whiddett of Thom Sweeney -"I have always admired what Thom Whiddett does so it was great to work with him", says James Small. Although this is a launch collection for the 29yo Brit designer, he was previously employed as first assistant to Kim Jones for six years.
