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Gianfranco Ferré

One year into their stint as designers of Gianfranco Ferré’s menswear line, Roberto Rimondi and Tommaso Aquilano set out to bend the rules of age-based dressing. Both believe young and mature men alike should wear black-and-white patterned suits -buttoned high and tight, and with bellbottoms- plus long overcoats with flared silhouettes and loads of protective black leather and bondage-strapped motorcycle boots. They maximized the house codes of structure, grandeur and fur, except the fur was often replaced in the back by quilted insulation. It all seemed out of sync with the prevailing moods, and the bizarre styling -like dizzying plaid-on-plaid-on-plaid suit-and-tie combos-, bad hair and soundtrack about gasoline did nothing to enhance the experience, but the show was a good time and most of the clothes are totally wearable. Therefore I liked this collection.