Next to his denim-heavy all-American romp for last season, Rick Owens said he wanted to dress a more sophisticated man and offer more tailoring -with his signature gothic overtures. "Last season had a slightly younger attitude", the designer said after the show. "This season is a little more grown-up : something even my dad would wear". Er, I guess whether Rick Owens is the secret son of Pete Burns.... A cast of unpredictable models bolted down the runway in long and roomy jackets with padded square shoulders that added a bit of freak-chic to formal. Even tweeds and hounds tooth fabrics made their way into Rick Owen’s tailoring, with added shimmer lending a feminine feel. Coats, Mr O's forte, seemed more plausible for father figures, notably a raincoat with a pointed hood, a sleeveless military parka lined with fur and a matte shearling coat that was wrapped across the chest and belted. Listen, you're either ready to board the Rick Owens rocket ship or you're not. But either way, you can still groove on the grotesque futuro-goth spectacle of it all -the leather tunics, the snakeskin stacked heels, the overcoats with Herman Munster shoulders, the fingerless fur-lined Lorax gloves. And much of it even in colors other than black. Somewhere Ziggy Stardust and Dr Who are placing their orders.
