Despite the rock-star muscle, marquee-name prestige and moneyed start that launched Edun into the stratosphere half a decade ago, the ethical fashion label has weathered a trying couple of years. The house that U2′s Bono, his wife Ali Hewson, and designer Rogan Gregory built was reportedly more than $11 million in the hole in 2007. Then in 2008, Edun parted ways with Mr Gregory. But if there’s one thing acelebrity-backed label does best, it’s reinvent itself. In the past year, French luxury-goods conglomerate LVMH purchased a 49% stake in the company, a new creative director and chief executive were hired, some of Edun’s operations were outsourced to China, and the Hewsons moved from Dublin to the company’s home turf of New York City. And this is the first full collection under the new regime. It is inspired by pieces you might find in an artist’s closet. Classic waffle tweed woollens take modern shape in a military jacket worn with a released hem pant featuring raw, fluid edges to make for a relaxed worker silhouette. The statement piece this season is the surface treated cotton, military trooper parka. An ideal layering piece over a crinkled poplin shirt and sheer cotton Henley paired with a waffle tweed trouser. The naturalist color palette ranges from denim in Rothko gray, jackets in clay and moss tones, and cotton jersey shirts in rain heather hue and dusty black. The jeans are finished to emulate oil layers and quartz, influenced by Rothko paintings. Overall, this collection explores finding beauty in imperfections, much in the way artists are inspired by the irregularities in nature.
