London-based designer Martine Rose followed her self-penned métier with a fusion of streetwear and classic tailoring, complemented with splashy Tour de France-inspired graphics. The sports swagger was offset with well-considered feminine nuances -delicate à la William Morris florals printed across oversized boxy parkas and knee-length utility pocketed shorts, a shiny nylon bottle-green shirt reigniting the boys-in-skirts debate. Entitled "Cut & paste", this season's collection is awash with an electric palette akin to African-American culture from the late 80s. Bright yellows, reds and blues all create an appealing urban retro look that’s surprisingly wearable. Shirting, of course made an appearance, but lost all conventional connotations when rendered tunic-style, extended to the knee and detailed with poppers, or with soft passementerie. Sturdy workboots -emblazoned with Union Jack insignias- simultaneously reconciled hard-edges punk with 90s disaffection in a final statement on youthful rebellion.
