Former Bergdorf men’s fashion director turned luxury menswear designer Michael Bastian showed an upbeat collection inspired by school athletics he did for mainstream Gant (as you could see on Morphosis yesterday), and at his own runway show, he explored his darker side. An early clue was the shards of glass strewn on the runway. The first model stalked out wearing a ski mask the designer described as a 'menace mask'. The model took it off and attention was turned to the expertly tailored clothes he donned : a fitted red plaid quilted hunting jacket, a tipped white long-sleeve polo and washed, bleached 'skinhead' jeans. Michael Bastian had his usual mix of Fantastic Mr Fox-ready tweeds and cords and bold plaids, but he also added in a rougher side : a strong punch of romper-stomper grit-shin-high Doc Martens and thin suspenders hanging off the ass, not holding up the pants. Many of the looks were luxe interpretations of things a guy might wear with his Docs. There were Bastian staples : moleskin pants, fitted button-down shirts, boiled cashmere sweaters, and wool/cashmere suits and sport coats -all fitted and luxurious. But Michael Bastian seemed to be pushing himself beyond what some critics believe his clothes to be : ridiculously-priced interpretations of J Crew. This new collection may mark his continuing evolution in taking everyday wear, whether it be a preppy uniform or skinhead jeans, and giving it a luxurious spin.
